![]() ![]() Even in very small amounts (one bite), ingesting it can cause nausea, stomach cramps and diarrhea. The bitter substance is cucurbitacin, and it is poisonous. WARNING: Quite rarely, a genetic mutation or an accidental crossing with wild cucurbits or gourds can occur that produces a plant that bears very bitter fruit. They are also more common in wetter summers. These are usually more common if you grow squash or pumpkins in the same spot more than one year. Minor Problems: There are an array of leaf diseases, some of which can also cause blemishes or rots on the fruit.A similar commercial formulation uses potassium bicarbonate instead of baking soda, avoiding the sodium. Because it contains sodium, this remedy should not be applied year after year, because the sodium could build up over time and is harmful to the soil. This must be applied after rains and as new foliage grows. ![]() Management: A home remedy for powdery mildew is two tablespoons baking soda and one teaspoon of cooking or horticultural oil (to help it spread on the leaf) in one gallon of water.Many varieties of squash and pumpkins are resistant look for these when selecting seed. Leaves can become covered in a whitish mold (Figure 5). Powdery Mildew: This disease is common during hot weather.Note the irregular appearance on the leaf. If you do save the seed from your own garden, note the warning below about bitter-tasting squash!įigure 5. So, unless you plan on saving the seed, you can plant these vegetables next to each other without any ill effects. However, the result will only impact the seed and the resulting plant the following year it will not impact the current season’s fruit. Summer squash, gourds and some types of pumpkins and winter squash can cross-pollinate each other. Planting Note: A common misconception is that planting squash or cucumbers near gourds can cause abnormal fruit. A hill (soil piled two to three inches high) of three to four seeds sown close together is another way to plant squash this is good especially in heavy clay soils.After seedlings emerge, thin to stand two to six feet apart. In general, allow three to four feet of space on either side of the row for the vines to spread. Spacing will depend on the type and whether it is a “bush” variety. Sow seeds about half an inch deep and about two inches apart.If transplants are used, they should be young, having no more than one or two true leaves. Direct seeding is the preferred method for starting squash, as the seed germinate quickly and easily, and roots will grow deeper than if transplants are used.
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